Friday and Saturday nights in Roman neighborhood Trastevere are extremely busy. So much so that when I actually lived there I rarely was able to sleep in the summer/fall months. Groups stay in Trastevere drinking and carousing until early hours below the windows of people who actually live there. For this reason, it was always better to join them rather than beat them, and Saturday night, drink and carouse until you were too tired to worry about the noise and fall asleep.
This past weekend in Trastevere was no different for me. After a lovely dinner with a friend, where we discussed anything and everything, and topped off our evening with a grappa for her and a Fernet Branca for me, I was more than happy to roll on back home and fall asleep.
But the Fernet Branca was strong in me, and Sunday morning I woke up very early and not so bright. I decided, in my infinite wisdom, that it would be the perfect time to get out of bed and continue my Early Morning series I started with Spoleto and Venice and continue it with one of my favorite neighborhoods in the world at its best: completely empty.
It was also the only time I’ve ever permitted myself to leave the house still in my pajama pants (and jacket and scarf) since I moved here, well, because you just don’t do that in Italy. Luckily for me I ran into hardly anyone.
And back to Trastevere. The narrow streets of the neighborhood easily fill up even with just a few people walking in them.
Abandoned streets are the most peaceful thing about Trastevere in early morning. I could see straight on until Viale Trastevere without a soul in sight.
Another popular hangout that is just steps away from the Tiber or Tevere river – Piazza Trilussa. Those steps are usually packed with people.
The Piazza of Santa Maria in Trastevere, easily considered the center of the Trastevere neighborhood. A beautiful piazza and one of the loudest in the summer. Often there are performances and inevitably there is at least one or two singers singing “O Sole Mio” or “Besame Mucho.”
The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere. The building I lived in is at my back.
The golden mosaics on the basilica always look great in the morning light.
Some beautiful morning colors in Trastevere.
If you’ve ever been to Rome, or most Italian cities, there’s always one, two or five rose sellers circulating hoping to entice young lovers to buy one. This rose must have a story – what do you think it was? A love lost and discarded? The last rose of the evening?
Want more Rome? Read some of my other Rome posts.