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Catching and Eating Ricci di Mare - Sea Urchins

August 28th, 2007 · Tags: Food · Italy · Puglia

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One of my favorite experiences during vacation was going to the beach at Mattinatella, in the Parco Nazionale del Gargano in Puglia, Italy. Other than the beautiful beach, the water was great and though I sometimes miss the waves of a raging ocean, it’s nice to float and swim for hours as if I was in a lake.

Mattinatella Beach

One of the favorite seaside flavors in Italy are the Ricci di Mare, or Sea Urchins. If you are in Italy during the summer, you may find families hunched around a large bag of sea urchins at lunchtime, enjoying a nice aperitivo.

These are considered a bit of a delicacy for several reasons: the amount of effort it takes to collect them, and the amount of edible material you actually receive for pounds collected. You could buy these from a fishmonger or the pulp in a can, but why? The joy of collecting them yourselves and then eating them directly on the beach is what a ricci di mare lover enjoys. Once you find where they are, the ricci di mare can be pulled off with gloves or using tools (bring a big bag!) Though they are spiny, the don’t hurt when they walk across your hand, and rather tickle.

Ricci di Mare - Sea Urchins ready to be Eaten

Opening the sea urchin is an important process because the edible part rests completely on one side, so you don’t want to open (and destroy) the wrong end! This is an instrument used specifically for this purpose. If you don’t have it on hand, here is a video that shows you how to open them with scissors, but a cleaner cut will probably preserve the edible part better and is worth the investment.

Aprire i Ricci di Mare - Cutting Open Sea Urchins

The edible part is commonly referred to as “roe” which is synonymous with fish eggs, but in this case, it’s actually the organ that produces the eggs rather than the eggs themselves and therefore considered gonads. They can be rinsed with fresh water or salt water before eating or you can pick around the internal parts of the sea urchin without rinsing. They definitely have a salty, complex sea taste that my brain associates with the smell of fresh fish my stepfather would catch and clean for us to eat that evening, and a consistency that is so light that it’s almost foamy.

Ricci di Mare - Sea Urchins

Most ricci di mare lovers will tell you that eating the roe fresh and on its own is the best way to eat them, but often people will make a simple pasta dish with them. Susan from Porcini Chronicles made Spaghetti ai Ricci di Mare con Limone. Risotto is also a popular option for eating ricci di mare.

To eat the sea urchin, tip it to drain out any remaining liquid, and you can scoop out the rows with your tongue one at a time, or use a knife or small spoon. You may be able to find the Ricci di Mare pulp or roe in Korean or Japanese food markets (”uni” in Japanese).

Polpa di Ricci di Mare - Sea Urchin Roe

24 Comments

24 responses so far ↓

  • 1 Farfallina... a roam to Rome // Aug 28, 2007 at 8:22 am

    Wow, Roe is edible? Hmm, I must ask my vikingo if he’s tried this, he seems to know everything about seafood..

    Well, it’s good to see you’re still enjoying vacation, since many seem to be back by now :)

  • 2 Paola // Aug 28, 2007 at 9:02 am

    Don’t take this wrong but you ate a protected species. This is not good.

  • 3 Ms. Adventures in Italy // Aug 28, 2007 at 9:32 am

    Paola, I’m sorry, I think you’re thinking of datteri di mare, which are illegal since you have to remove part of the rock to “harvest” them and therefore destroy the ecosystem. This site http://tinyurl.com/yooggt talks about legal harvesting of sea urchins in Italy.

  • 4 Napolux // Aug 28, 2007 at 1:58 pm

    Well there’s no right answer. In some regions you can eat “ricci di mare”, in others you can’t.

    It depends on regional laws and even on seasons.

    For example, you can’t eat them on summer, but eating them is legal during winter. ;)

  • 5 daima // Aug 28, 2007 at 2:12 pm

    I live in california. 20 years ago, the fisherman sold sea urchins for 25 cents each, but we didn’t even buy it. When the japanese took it all for the shushi, then we realize how valuable it is.

  • 6 Jeni // Aug 28, 2007 at 2:20 pm

    I loved this post! I never knew how to open them properly. I have always wanted to eat them straight from the beach, but now I know I need to come prepared. That is one of the best flavors in the world when they are that freschissima!

  • 7 Cindy // Aug 28, 2007 at 3:39 pm

    Ahh they looked so good~!

  • 8 jess // Aug 28, 2007 at 5:44 pm

    dont you feel bad letting them crawl across your hand like a pet and then cutting them open alive?

  • 9 Tiffany // Aug 29, 2007 at 8:42 am

    OMG! That video from Ms. South Carolina was unbelievable. I have never seen anything like it…Scary is right!

    It sounds like you guys had a great time in the South. We also went to Puglia, but quite a bit further south, between Gallipoli and Santa Maria di Leuca. Hope all is well and you are still nice and tanned! T

  • 10 Jeff // Aug 29, 2007 at 10:04 am

    Don’t forget that you need to know how to pick out the females verses the males! It’s no use opening up something that has no eggs! The females usually have smaller spines and a bigger “test” which is the English word for the body of a sea urchin. I still haven’t warmed up to the taste.

    Jeff

  • 11 Beth // Aug 29, 2007 at 5:28 pm

    Everything looks gorgeous!

  • 12 Paola // Aug 29, 2007 at 9:04 pm

    I checked online before posting. I can’t really say fromt he pics you posted, but they seem to be one of the following: Echinodermata
    Ophidiaster ophidianus
    Asterina pancerii
    Centrostephanus
    longispinus (Riccio di mare a spine
    lunghe)
    Paracentrotus lividus ( Riccio di mare di roccia)

    List taken from http://www.sibm.it/file%20.doc/specie_protette.pdf
    (Società Italiana Biologia Marina)

  • 13 Ms. Adventures in Italy // Aug 29, 2007 at 9:59 pm

    Hi Paola - I appreciate you commenting, and I do think there is some merit to what you’re saying, but I think it’s not as simple as it seems - the site I mentioned before is run by the FAO and is reliable. It also mentions limits for private/commercial fishermen as well as a minimum size limit of each sea urchin, and the periods of stop are May and June.

    The Ministry of the Environment in Italy mentions there are over 118 species of Echinodermi in Italy, of which only 4 types are protected (the ones you listed above). http://www.minambiente.it/index.php?id_sezione=1557

    Echinodermi. Sono uno dei più caratteristici phyla animali: comprendono crinoidi (gigli di mare), oloturoidi (cetrioli di mare), asteroidi (stelle di mare), ofiuroidi (stelle serpentine) ed echinoidi (ricci di mare). In Mediterraneo sono note 143 specie, delle quali 118 sono state raccolte anche nei mari italiani. Quattro specie (due stelle e due ricci) sono considerate meritevoli di protezione.

    I’m not a marine biologist, but I would think these particular ricci di mare are not illegal since many restaurants in Italy serve dishes using them and risk being fined! I did not fish for these ricci, nor did anyone in my group, so unfortunately I can’t account for their location or collection method.

    I think it’s interesting to share this as I see them eaten quite often on the beaches in Italy. I agree there needs to be clearer legislation!

  • 14 nyc/caribbean ragazza // Aug 30, 2007 at 2:19 pm

    I’m not sure I will be trying these special foods anytime soon (ha) but I love the photos.

  • 15 Ceri // Aug 30, 2007 at 4:04 pm

    Great pics but I think they look better than they taste, we had them in Venice………. Hope you are enjoying the city life again.

  • 16 Paola // Aug 31, 2007 at 6:09 pm

    if I am not wrong, the ricci di mare sold in the restaurant should be the cultivated ones.
    Anyway there are way too species!

    I have a biologist friend who work as a researcher at his uni and told me he made experiment using ricci di mare’ sperm and they came from France. (I’m still laughing…and wondering how you extract sperm from them, anyway!)

  • 17 lieludalis // Aug 31, 2007 at 6:31 pm

    Yum! Uni!
    Urchin in/as sushi is pretty good too.

  • 18 adina // Sep 12, 2007 at 7:49 am

    questo post sui ricci è fantastico. l’ultima foto poi.. si vede tutta la polpa del riccio! che buoni, eh? bella la sicilia, vero? ciao!!

  • 19 edinburgh tourist // Oct 25, 2007 at 5:07 pm

    I went to mediteranian Turkey this Summer and trod on one of these little sods about 4 metres from the shore! It was my aniversary and my boyfriend fetched the blasted thing from the sea for me. I was adament you could eat them, so we took it into the restaurant behind us to ask-but alas they said it was too small. Now I know how to do it I shall not hesitate next time I find one! Thanks!

  • 20 Ron Jeremy // Oct 26, 2007 at 1:18 pm

    Fresh Uni with a little sea water is the greatest thing in the world.

  • 21 Marco Stevanus // Dec 5, 2007 at 11:27 pm

    Datteri are Illegal, Ricci (which you were eating) are NOT illegal to pick and eat.

    Marco

  • 22 Francesco // Jan 22, 2008 at 5:30 pm

    How wonderful to have found this website. Your descriptions are right on…including how to open “i ricci” with scissors! This is the was we used to do it when I was a kid and lived in Italy, and it’s still the way we do it in the U.S. whenever we buy the greenish ones. My preference is for the ones from the Adriatic for sure.

    I love your site!

    Thanks for the memories.

  • 23 jojo // Feb 24, 2008 at 5:28 am

    dove for these with an italian friend by the seashore not too far from rome– ate them right there on the rocks and it was the most beautiful experience — still vivid after all these years.
    But anyway, I’m still confused on how to tell the males from females — I never got it– my friend was telling me the females have a more purplish color? so smaller spines, smaller test and purplish color? anybody can help?

  • 24 jojo // Feb 24, 2008 at 5:30 am

    btw– i’m in new england now. i’ve been searching for ricci to eat in this way– no luck. anybody know?

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