The locale? vino roma on the lungotevere, along the Tiber river just above the Castel Sant’Angelo, where Hande and her husband, who are both sommeliers, run wine tastings and other events.

The star of the evening? Franciacorta, a sparkling wine that comes from Lombardy, in the region where I live. Franciacorta has a DOCG status, controlled designation of origin guaranteed, which means only wine using grapes from the Franciacorta area can be called so. I can’t articulate all of its qualities (ask Hande about them), but I definitely appreciate its crisp bubbliness, and it’s one of my favorite things to drink. So I was more than ready to concentrate on the theme for the evening.

We all brought a bottle each of Franciacorta to share. When we arrived, we went up to the roof with everyone to enjoy a crisp glass of Franciacorta and bottles #1, 2, 3, and 4.

Where else can you get a view of Rome like this?

St. Peter’s in the distance – the view is only marred by yet another crane hovering above it (cranes a very normal sight in Milan)

The sunset washed everything with a golden glow, and I set about taking pictures of all the people present.

Our lovely hosts, Hande and Theodor – aren’t they cute together? :)

We came back downstairs to pop bottles #5, 6, 7, and 8.

This cheese not only aesthetically pleased me, but I couldn’t stop nibbling at it – formaggio con mirto – cheese with myrtle berries, the same berries when distilled that become the Sardinian liquer mirto.

A perfect aperitivo, Franciacorta accompanied by a 5-grain zucchini and pesto salad that I whipped up in my friend’s kitchen, a summer eggplant salad, and lots and lots of cheese and pizza bianca (and yes, I made sure to get a fresh piece at Roscioli.

Souvenirs from the event – wine corks and vino roma brochures. Corks from bottles #9 and 10 went right on top.

Bottles #11 and 12. And the pièce de résistance, the roasted porchetta head! After the body slices were devoured, the head was set up and cracked up by none other than Ms. Katie Parla, who made quick work of getting to the good parts.

I definitely recommend checking out vino roma if you’re headed to Rome. They do wine tasting, wine & cheese lunch, Rome food tours, and sparkling wine events, too!

vino roma: Drink wine. Not too much. Mainly Italian.
http://www.vinoroma.com/

To see other pictures from our evening, check Un’Americana a Roma’s round-up.

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• 2011 Year in Review in Pictures
• The Guide to Italian Aperitivo and Drinks in Italy
• Where to go to Aperitivo in Milan, Italy

When I’m pressed to choose something, I rejoice when I find a little bignet filled with panna, whipped cream, instead of the crema pasticcera, the pastry chef’s cream, which is made with flour, egg yolks and milk. I feel lucky when I find its little white bulbous head tucked in between tiny fruit tarts covered in a gelatin glaze, little cannoli or cream puffs filled with all flavors of crema pasticcera like chocolate or pistachio, or in between pasta frolla tarts or little rolled canoncino.

So it’s no surprise that I should be instantly drawn to its bigger (and better-looking) brother, il maritozzo.

A maritozzo is essentially a sweet roll (made with eggs and yeast) cut open and filled to the brim with panna, fresh whipped cream. This sweet is from the Lazio region, and can be found in Rome, which is why last weekend when I was there, I shunned the traditional cornetto (croissant) for breakfast and went straight into the arms of my better-tasting lover, the maritozzo. The traditional maritozzo‘s bread is a little more complicated and has raisins, pine nuts, and candied fruits all baked in (similar to a panettone, but not in consistency) but I think many bars are offering a simpler and, in my opinion, more desirable plain sweet roll so it’s just about the panna.

Die-hards can pick up the maritozzo and dig right in with a big bite – but better have napkins nearby and open wide because it’s definitely a mouthful. If you’re not feeling up to it, or if you would like a few mouthfuls of just panna on their own (like me), grab the spoon from your coffee or marocchino and scoop out a few spoonfuls until the panino looks more manageable.

Are you more of a pastry person, or would you prefer the maritozzo, like me? Would you bite straight into it, or use a spoon?

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The literal translation of pizza bianca is “white pizza” but you might see the term “Pizza Bianca” or “Pizze bianche” on a typical pizzeria menu anywhere in Italy. This indicates that the pizza is not “rossa” – covered with tomato sauce, and therefore the pizza is just the plain pizza dough base with the toppings indicated on the menu.

Pizza bianca in Rome, however, means something a little different in that you won’t find pizza bianca only in pizzerias, but you’ll find pizza bianca ready to be sliced all over the city at various forni (sing. forno) breadmakers.

Pizza bianca is just that: fresh, crusty, crackly, pizza dough sprinkled with salt and brushed with wonderful, high quality olive oil. They are cooked in (ideally) wood-burning ovens in long, rectangular slabs which are typical of pizza al trancio (pizza by the slice) in Rome. Pizza al trancio is definitely one of my favorite street foods in Rome.

Perhaps the most famous maker of pizza bianca, and rightly so, is the Forno Campo de’ Fiori, located in the famous piazza of the same name. When they’re baking you’ll often find the door directly to the forno open.

It’s a pretty nondescript place, from the outside, with a large wooden “FORNO” announcing its presence . After you enter, make your way to the crowded counters and request pizzas bianca. The baker will inevitably place his knife on the long slab of pizza bianca to indicate where he intends to cut. Use your hands to show how wide of a slice you’d like. You’ll receive a “scontrino” receipt with the amount that needs to be paid. Take it to the cash register, pay, and either return to pick up your piece of pizza bianca from the bread counter or if it’s already been given to you, now it’s time to eat!

Sometimes you’ll even peek them putting the pizza bianca into the oven.

This is one of my first stops when I arrive in Rome. I always underestimate how much pizza bianca I want and always have to come back later and get another piece. I suggest getting more than you want and then you can snack on it throughout the day!

Let’s get a closer look at pizza bianca.

or from the other angle. See that crispy, golden, crunchy oily surface sprinkled with salt? You’re going to pray to it in your sleep. I can’t wait for the next time I get to eat pizza bianca!

When you see pizza bianca in others’ hands, try to resist and NOT steal it from them.

Forno Campo de’ Fiori
Campo De’ Fiori, 22 – Vicolo del Gallo, 14
www.fornocampodefiori.com

• Ready to make your own pizza bianca? Try this recipe at Serious Eats for Pizza Bianca
• Or if you’re coming to Rome, here’s two more Roman forni and their pizza bianca to try

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So if you were getting a ride somewhere, most likely you were strapping on a helmet and holding on to dear life while whizzing through the streets and in and out of traffic. And when you’re a passenger with someone who is comfortable driving a motorino, it’s even better!

In Italy, as crazy as the traffic is, I always feel like drivers are a bit more sensitive to scooter/motorcycle riders than say, the United States. Since they are so prolific, as a car driver you absolutely have to be aware of them and make room, otherwise you could hurt someone or at least get your car banged up by not paying attention.

That’s not to say that riding on a motorcycle in Italy is safe, but you just feel like you’re more a part of the road than an intruder.

But if there ever was a city to see on the back of a Vespa, it’s Rome.

So when I was in Rome a few weeks ago, one morning (after my early early morning in Trastevere) I found dozens of (mostly vintage) Vespas lined up with their owners and waiting….for something. That something arrived in the form of dozens of very large tourists. They didn’t speak Italian, the Italians didn’t speak whatever, but each driver paired off with a passenger that in most cases was much larger than he, and mounted those Vespas.

Motors started, cameras were pulled out, helmets went on, and away they went!

Now, if you’ve never been on a Vespa or a scooter before, it’s definitely something to try. It might even be safer to try it as a passenger if you’ve never ridden before.

Interested in seeing Rome from the back of a Vespa? I’m not sure if this group I saw is one of the ones I listed below – you’re welcome to send me other links of similar groups and I’ll post them here!

• The NYTimes talks about Touring Rome on a Vespa
• Nerone Vespa Tours (mentioned in the NYT article)
• Happy Rent Classic Rome Vespa Tours
• Vespa in Italy strangely is only in the north of Italy, not Rome

Riding a scooter or motorcycle around Italy? Yay or Nay? Done it, afraid to? Tell me in the comments.

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